An elegant house from Lima’s literary past

One of the leading Peruvian literary figures we learned about was Ricardo Palma, whose own life was as fascinating as his stories. We got a sense of the author as a man and Peruvian by visiting his home – now a museum – in the Miraflores district of Lima.

Students pose for a final light-hearted photo outside the Casa Museo Ricardo Palma.
Students pose for a final light-hearted photo outside the Casa Museo Ricardo Palma.

Palma lived from 1833 to 1919, a period of great change in Peru. In addition to a rich life of reading and writing from an early age to the end of his days, Palma was a naval officer, a survivor of a shipwreck, a friend to presidents and a political activist (which led to a period of exile in Chile). Besides his writing, he is best known in Peru for rebuilding the National Library in Lima after it was ransacked and reduced to ashes by occupation forces of the Chilean army in 1881 during the War of the Pacific with Chile. Palma also traveled the world and met famous writers in Europe, Brazil and the United States. He was in the United States when President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated. He married late but happily and had a large family.

A portrait of Ricardo Palma, who lived from 1833 to 1919 and is considered one of Peru's finest writers.
A portrait of Ricardo Palma, who lived from 1833 to 1919 and is considered one of Peru’s finest writers.

Palma invented a literary genre, the tradición, in which he fictionalized historical stories about Peru, relating them with wit and humor and ending with a moral. His stories fed a need for national pride and identity in the epoch following Peru’s independence from Spain. His stories were collected in his most famous book, Tradiciones peruanas (Peruvian Traditions).

The office of Ricardo Palma, one of Peru's leading literary figures.
The office of Ricardo Palma, one of Peru’s leading literary figures.

Visiting Palma’s house provided an opportunity to step back to a different time in Lima’s history. The house is like a time capsule – furnished as it was when he lived there, with graceful furniture, lace curtains, early telephones, his writing desk and many personal belongings. In the courtyard is a lovely datura (or moonflower) tree, with fragrant, drooping blossoms that are said to have a narcotic effect. Our guide related the folklore that Palma’s daughters never married – they lived with him until he passed away – because suitors who came visiting became too sleepy to pursue a courtship.

A telephone in Ricardo Palma's office.
A telephone in Ricardo Palma’s office.

The Casa Museo Ricardo Palma was surprisingly tranquil, in spite of bustling modern streets just beyond the door. We enjoyed the quiet interlude and sensation of traveling back to the early 20th century, if only for a few hours.