Trip to the southwest
Our
week started off with lectures on Monday and Tuesday. On Monday we welcomed
back Puro Blanco who spoke to us on sex tourism, and also on
the current political scene. There's been a political void left
by the recent death of former president and "strongman" Joaquin
Balaguer. (See the Summer
2002 website for more about Balaguer.) On Tuesday Asier Cabrera
gave us on overview of more than five centuries of Dominican history.
On Thursday we set out for a four-day field trip to the southwestern
portion of the island and the border with Haiti.
Lago Enriquillo

Our first day
took
us around Lake Enriquillo, a salt-water lake slightly larger than the
island of Manhattan which lies below sea level. We stopped at a small
outcropping of rocks called "Las Caritas". There
are carvings in the rocks here that are believed to be ancient works
of indigenous people who inhabited this area. Closer to the actual lake
itself, we were greeted by rhino iguanas that happily ate the
crackers we threw to them. Flamingos and American crocodiles also inhabit
the lake, although we were not fortunate enough to see them. Iguana
| Dock at Enriquillo.
Continuing around the lake, we stopped at the whimsical Polo
Magnetico, ('magnetic pole"). Here we
tried to discern the mystery that seemed to make things roll uphill.
Our resident math major had an especially difficult time wrapping his
mind around the phenomenon.
Pedernales
After a night in Barahona, we left for Pedernales. Pedernales is a fairly isolated town that borders Haiti. The area nearby ranges from desert-like conditions, to pine forests, to pristine beaches, to limestone mines.
Our
first stop was at the Haitian-Dominican border market. There
have been open hostilities across this border in the past, and this
market is one of the few venues in either country where Haitians and
Dominicans can easily cross borders to mingle, buy and sell.
We finished the day watching the
sun set over the ocean at Cabo Rojo, an experience in which many
in our group saw the beauty of God's creation.
Haiti
The
next morning we crossed to the Haitian town of Anse-a-Pitres.
The walk through the dry riverbed that defines the
border between the Dominican Republic and Haiti was short, but we
felt as if we had traveled much farther. The change in cultures and
living conditions was palpable. Although we spent only a short time
there, the stark contrasts in living standards raised questions that
we continue to grapple with.Mary
and Christina talk with local boys.
Bahia de Aguilas
We
spent our last afternoon near Pedernales at a remote beach named "The
bay of the eagles." Supposedly Columbus gave it this name when
he saw pelicans diving here - as we did - and mistook them for eagles.
There is controversy over whether to develop this beach and make it
into a tourist destination.
A university professor, who accompanied us on this trip and knows the area well, told us that such development would devastate the fragile environment. He said the area would support "eco-tourism" and small groups, but not the 5-6,000 hotel rooms that some companies would like to place here. Ironically, the public debate over this development has increased interest in it, and draws increasing (although still relatively small) numbers of visitors.
The boat ride to the bay and back was fascinating in itself - high
cliffs with cacti; pelicans diving for food; and small fishing boats
setting out to try and make a catch.
Paraiso
Sunday
we started back to Santo Domingo, with a stop close to Paraiso
("Paradise"). The views
from near Paraiso had us agreeing that the town was aptly named.
We worked up an appetite by hiking up the nearby San Rafael river (snapshot
at right).
The group returned to Santo Domingo with a new appreciation of the
natural beauty and immense diversity of this small country. We also
returned with deeper appreciation of the economic, political, and social
issues that we encountered firsthand.