Our tour of downtown Lima began in an early colonial monastery, Convento de San Francisco, known for its religious art above ground and its history below ground. To be sure, we admired the courtyard, the carvings, and the paintings, including “The Last Supper,” by Diego de la Puente. But what really got our attention were the bone-filled crypts, with skulls and femurs arranged in concentric circles. The church served as a burial place until 1808. On one wall we read John 11:25-26, in which Jesus proclaims, “I am the resurrection and the life . . .”
The Iglesia de San Francisco and its adjacent monastery: considered one of the most important historic monuments in Lima. Soon after Francisco Pizarro founded Lima in 1535, Franciscan friars began to build the monastery.
A short walk away we spent time in Lima’s newly remodeled train station, which reopened in 2009 as the Casa de la Literatura Peruana, paying tribute to Mario Vargas Llosa and other literary lights of Peru. We stayed only 20 minutes; it’s a place to go back to.
We then wandered over to Parque de la Muralla, by the River Rimac, to see the remains of the walls (muralla) that once served to safeguard the emerging city of Lima. The walls were built in the 1680s (the city was founded in 1535).
By 12 noon, we were standing in front of the Government Palace, or the Palacio de Gobierno, which serves as the home of Peru’s president, Ollanta Humala. The changing of the guard is a formal affair. Two lines of guards emerge from the palace, goose-stepping their way toward the front gates, as a military band keeps time.
Then it was time for lunch at La Merced, a classy restaurant whose space was once part of the adjacent La Merced Church. We took sanctuary in the back room, sitting under a beautifully carved mahogany ceiling. Students ordered their menú meal, which features multiple options for a first course, la entrada, and a second course, the main plate, el segundo.
After lunch we took a tour of the Lima Cathedral, which, like the Government Palace, is situated directly on the main square, or Plaza Mayor. Tour guides like ours, Eduardo, make sure to point out the coffin that holds the remains of Francisco Pizzaro, the Spanish conquistador who overthrew the Incan empire. We also saw vestments of Pope John Paul II; Lima is said to be one of only three cities where his vestments can be seen. Eduardo invited us to attend Mass on Sundays at 11 with the archbishop of Lima, Juan Luis Cipriani. Church officials were preparing for the activities of the national holiday honoring Santa Rosa de Lima (1586-1617), which includes a major procession that some of our students took part in over the weekend.
Because of the morning fog, we deviated from our schedule to wait till the afternoon to visit Cerro San Cristóbal. And, indeed, the sun was out as our bus, reaching down deep in the lowest gears, climbed the narrow, twisting streets to reach the top of the hill, which offers arguably the best views of the sprawling city of Lima. Just before leaving, the students gathered around the cross.
Photographs and captions courtesy of Karen Stoltzfus
The Iglesia de San Francisco and its adjacent monastery: considered one of the most important historic monuments in Lima. Soon after Francisco Pizarro founded Lima in 1535, Franciscan friars began to build the monastery. School children enter the Monastery (Convento) of San Francisco.Women outside the Convento de San Francisco, selling sweets to the students after their visit.Casa de la Literatura Peruana, formerly Lima’s main train station.Students inside the Casa de la Literatura with its elegant Art Nouveau interior, and stained-glass skylight. Information about the life of Mario Vargas Llosa is arranged in the center of the building.Students inside the Casa de la Literatura.Steps at former train station, now Casa de la Literatura Peruana.School children take a break on the platform of Lima’s former train station, now the Casa de la Literatura Peruana.Jessica and Elizabeth at Parque de la Muralla (Park of the Wall) along the banks of the River Rimac in Lima Centro.Max wanders the Parque de la Muralla (Park of the Wall) along the banks of the River Rimac in Lima Centro.This bronze statue of Francisco Pizarro, created by American sculptor Ramsey MacDonald in the early 20th century, was moved to Parque de la Muralla from Lima’s Plaza Mayor. The figure isn’t even Pizarro – it’s an anonymous conquistador invented by the sculptor.Leaving the Parque de la Muralla, walking toward San Francisco monastery.Lima’s Plaza Mayor.The Archbishop’s Palace (with the famous carved wooden balconies), attached to Lima’s Basilica Cathedral.Students in the Plaza Mayor.The changing of the guard at the Palacio de Gobierno, or the Presidential Palace, in the Plaza Mayor.The changing of the guard at the Palacio de Gobierno, or the Presidential Palace, in the Plaza Mayor.Frances and Maddie at the changing of the guard.Laura, Adriene, Elizabeth, Mariah and Abby pose while watching the changing of the guard.School children at the Plaza Mayor in Lima Centro.Armando and Adriene having lunch at La Merced.The nave of the Basilica Cathedral of Lima, officially inaugurated by Francisco Pizarro.The colorfully “mosaic-ed” chapel containing the tomb of Francisco Pizarro (1475-1541) in Lima’s cathedral.Our guide, Eduardo, tells us about one of the chapels inside Lima’s Cathedral.An altar in Lima’s Basilica Cathedral.Skulls of people who were buried in the cathedral.Our wonderful guide, Eduardo.Students pose inside Lima’s Cathedral.Flowers near the altar in celebration of Santa Rosa de Lima.The Altar of Peruvian Saints, the final resting place of St. Rose of Lima, St. Martín de Porres, and St. Juan Masías.
The new tea shop at Lima Cathedral, which provides work for people in need of jobs.Plaza San Martín, inaugurated on July 27, 1921 in celebration of the 100th anniversary of the independence of Peru. Monument in the center of Plaza San Martin pays homage to Peru’s liberator, José de San Martín.Notice lady liberty with what was supposed to be a crown of flames (“llama” in Spanish) on her head. Instead of flames, however, the sculptor created a llama, which makes an amusing story!Waiting for our bus, stuck in Lima traffic.Students relaxing near Plaza San Martin as they wait for our bus.View of Lima from Cerro San Cristóbal – Lima’s new elevated train is visible.View from Cerro San Cristóbal above Lima, with the Lima bullring (Plaza de Acho) in the lower portion of the photo.The group poses in front of the cross at Cerro San Cristóbal, above Lima.
